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Setting machine in printing&dyeing(1)

Definition of stereotype

Finalizing is the main process of finishing. Knitwear can achieve certain shrinkage, density and feel through the mechanical effect of the setting machine and the effect of chemical reagent on shrinkage resistance, softening and hardening, and can achieve the appearance effect of neat and uniform door width, smooth lines and clear lines.

Method of yarn thickness:

Indicate the size of the yarn, which can be divided into imperial and metric counts.

1. The British system (Ne) is used to indicate the number of 840 yards per pound of yarn. An 8S/1 indicates 8 840 yards per pound of yarn.

2. Metric count (Nm) is the number of meters of yarn per gram of weight. By definition, the smaller the yarn count, the thicker the yarn. The units for yarn thickness are denier and ternary.

3. Denier (D) refers to the number of grams per 9000m of yarn; Tex is the number of grams per 1000 meters of yarn. By definition, the larger the denier number (the extra number), the thicker the yarn. The English system and metric system are called the unit of constant weight, and the denier and special number are called the unit of constant length.

Meaning of some knitting process parameters:

1. CPI: longitudinal density of the fabric, that is, the number of horizontal rows of coils (modulus) within 1 inch of the longitudinal circle along the fabric;

2. WPI: horizontal density of the fabric, that is, the number of vertical rows (stitches) of the coils within 1 inch of the horizontal circle along the fabric;

3. G weight: mass per unit area of fabric (GM/M2);

4. Yarn length: generally expressed as 50C, that is, the length of 50 coils. Measured in MM.

Main physical indicators to be controlled for finalization:

1. Door width:

The width of the door can be directly adjusted on the setting machine during production. The door width that can adjust on setting machine is a unit with centimeter, and the order form of the company asks the door width is a unit with inch commonly.So in the production process,inches should be converted to centimeters before adjustment. Conversion formula: 1 inch =2.54 cm.

2. Gram weight:

In general, the gram weight is controlled by adjusting the overfeed. In a certain range, the larger the overfeeding is, the heavier the grams are, and the smaller the overfeeding is, the lighter the grams are. Changes in the width of the door and other tensions may also cause changes in the grams, but these methods are not generally used to adjust the grams. (overfeeding compensation has some limitations)


Circulation is closely related to gram weight and refers to the repeated size of the pattern from the beginning to the end. The control method is the same as the gram weight control method. In general, the circulation is controlled by adjusting overfeed. In a certain range, the larger the overfeed, the shorter the cycle, and the smaller the overfeed, the longer the cycle. Changes in the width of the door and other tension may also cause changes in the circulation, but these methods are not generally used to adjust the circulation.

4. Shrinkage:

Shrinkage is one of the most important physical parameters to control the shaping process. Shrink must accomplish average, reasonable ability is best.Under normal circumstances, the average shrinkage refers to the warp and weft shrinkage deviation of no more than 3%. For fabrics with particularly loose fabric structure, the shrinkage deviation of warp and weft can be up to 7%, but it must be confirmed by SALES before mass production.

The so-called shrinkage is reasonable. For new cloth, it means that the standard set according to the shrinkage test result that must reflects the production level of GEK; for old cloth,which means that the shrinkage test result of finished products must be within the deviation range allowed by the customer standard. There are many factors affecting shrinkage, such as raw materials, knitting process, dyeing and washing process, finalizing process, mercerizing process, grasping/grinding/brushing process and operation of each process.

For sizing, shrinkage is mainly controlled by resins or preforms.

For pure cotton, the general method is to use resin control shrinkage. In the case that colophony can react adequately.And colophony dosage is bigger, shrink is better, but the problem that produces subsequently is force drops more. Therefore, the amount of resin is subject to a certain limit.

For the fabric with pull frame and chemical fiber, predetermined method is generally adopted to control shrinkage, and resin method is adopted to assist when necessary. This kind of cloth, the role of a predetermined step is equivalent to a step of pure cotton fabric resin, to a large extent determines the quality of the finished product.And its importance is self-evident which must be paid attention to. Shrinkage is also related to the width and weight of the door. In certain limits, the width of the door is wider, zonal shrink is bigger, conversely smaller, gram is heavier, classics shrink is smaller, conversely bigger and pass so adjust to exceed feed and door amplitude to improve shrink to a certain extent. The warp and weft shrinkage of the fabric itself is also related. Ideally, the sum of the warp and weft shrinkage of a fabric in a given state is a constant. So, as long as there is no external tension, when the shrinkage in one direction becomes smaller, the shrinkage in the other direction will become larger. This is the guideline that will shrink to do average. Of course, in the actual production process, it is impossible not to add external tension to the fabric. So measures must be taken in advance to improve it. If return wash water, pass colophony to wait. It is necessary to accumulate certain production experience in order to make accurate judgment on what measures should be taken.


Because the yarn is twisted, there is a tendency for the yarn to twist back when it is woven into the fabric. The trend of reverse twist is more obvious in single-sided fabric. The size of the twist depends on the twist of the yarn, fabric structure and knitting process. The twist is usually controlled by the method of slant shaping or step shaping. However, the resin cloth, improve the distortion can only take the method of oblique stereotypes; The method of stepwise shaping can be adopted to improve the distortion of the cloth with resin. When the amount of resin due to strong reasons can not be too large or the fabric itself slanting too large beyond the adjustable range of the setting machine, stepwise stereotypes can not do the required distortion, can be used to improve the skew stereotypes and stepwise stereotypes combined method.


PILLING is related to raw material quality, fabric structure, resin reaction degree and pretreatment process. Currently, there are three methods to improve PILLING:

1) enzyme washing;

2) over resin;

3) add appropriate amount of mortar to the materials.


Strength is a physical index that cannot be repaired, so it should be carefully controlled in the production process. Strength is related to raw material quality, fabric structure, knitting process, resin reaction degree and pretreatment process. For shaping, shrinkage, PILLING, distortion and other physical indicators should be guaranteed to minimize damage to the strength. When these indicators can not be taken into account, the priority to protect the strength.

8. Formaldehyde content:

Normally, formaldehyde content on the high side is caused by incomplete resin reaction. The formaldehyde content that general adult installs asks <75ppm. Some do the sheet of children's wear and underwear, formaldehyde content asks <20ppm. As long as the resin reaction is sufficient, the general adult installed formaldehyde content will meet the requirements. For demanding children's clothing and underwear list, as far as possible, but resin finishing. If want to achieve other physics index, must pass colophony, can arrange to return after passing colophony to wash formaldehyde, wet finalize the design again next.

9. PH value:

The customer requires that the PH value of the cloth cover should be weak acid or neutral, and the PH value of the general product should not exceed 8. NIKE, TOMMY and most of the domestic customers have strict requirements on the PH value: light white PH range :4.5-6.5. Therefore, all the cloth of these customers should pay attention to the strict control on the PH value.

Hangzhou Chungyo Chem Co., Ltd.

Email: chungyo@cycolorant.com

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